Cuba, a blast from the past.

I can only equate a trip to Cuba to a very colourful trip in a time capsule back to the the fifties, or at least what I imagine the fifties would resemble. I say colourful because every building, car, bicycle, and horse and carriage is just that- multicolored. Havana is a city where new hop on hop off busses share roads with horse carts and pink 50's model plymouths; still in perfect running condition. It's a city with no wifi, where owning an iPhone is a fashion statement, and where finding a hotel with running water and electricity is a welcome bonus. Locals roam the streets in bright unisex clothing and fishnet stockings, animals that could be feline or canine (who knows?) play on the crumbling roads, buildings leak, and the local men wolf whistle unashamedly. Despite looking like it's still recovering from a war time (bombs and all), Havana is unexpectedly beautiful. It's a city that makes you feel safe even though everything screams danger, where petty crime is minimal, and where people with next to nothing smile at you despite your obvious cultural difference resultant from a more westernized world. 

For our first two nights we stayed at a hotel called Rosa de Ortega on the outskirts of Havana. This modest roadside Casa has a garden of eden type feel upon entry, amazing staff, hearty breakfasts of fruit, eggs, cheese and bread and gorgeous old red brick rooms. Tired and unwilling to venture too far on our first night we walked to a restaurant called Fondita Heredia with pretty low expectations. We were pleasantly surprised with a great sangria, strong citrusy G&Ts, crunchy croquettes, and huge meaty pork chops. 

Awake and eager to explore we taxi'd into old Havana, beginning our day at the Revolution Museum and Granma monument. From there we walked and explored, pretty much from one bar to another, starting at Sloppy Joe's. Touristy and lacking much Cuban vibe, we moved on to a very cool roof top bar on O'Reilley street called El Del Frente. We knew this was a good find when we saw the beers wrapped in newspaper, dripping wall art, colourful G&T's and cigar smoking clientele. Lunch followed at Havana 61 (a Tripadvisor top ten) and it didn't disappoint in terms of taste, quality or pricing. 

After 2 nights we moved to a place called Vitrales Rooms, it's on Habana street, right in the middle of the chaos that is Old Havana. Vitrales is right above one of the busiest streets in the city, it looks into derelict buildings, hostels, restaurants, and is possibly close to a school judging by the constantly high noise level; however it's got a cute roof garden and a certain charm that is undeniable.

304 O'Reilley

The restaurant 304 O'Reilley demands it's own paragraph as a favorite of the trip. This hole in the wall enterprise is smaller than you can imagine, jam packed, and adorable. Booking is essential (for any good restaurant in Havana). The meal begins with a plate of crispy garlic covered plantains (dried deep fried green bananas) and a sweet chilli type fresh salsa that is unbelievable. We ordered lobster (very cheap in Cuba), fresh fish and chicken to share. Each plate was vibrantly adjourned by a colourful array of fruit and vegetables. If I had to try and translate Havana onto a plate, this would be it. The drinks too deserve a mention, if there's one thing Cubans have gotten right it's how to make cocktails. 

La Gaurdia

Another restaurant that was outstanding was La Gaurdia. The walk there had us wondering whether we were headed for a dive joint and when we saw the bouncers standing outside the crumbling entrance and grand stairway (of what clearly was once a beautiful building) we were even more confused. However, three flights of stairs later a restored restaurant emerged, kitted out with chandeliers and fashionably dressed wait staff. We waited for our table on the roof top bar which is adjourned with funky furniture, lighting and good music. The meal is served on an outside patio. I had honey roasted chicken which was out of this world. The food isn't really Cuban, however eating at La Gaurdia is an experience that shouldn't be missed. Again, booking is essential. 

Carona Cigar Factory

Cigars in Cuba are like Marlboro gold beyond in any South African student town- everywhere. We went to the government cigar factory called the Carona factory (the biggest one in Cuba), a building that turns out 35 000 cigars a day. Monte Christo, Coheba, Romeo and Juliette- you name it. The hundreds of rollers work in loud rooms packed with messy rows. The air is thick with smoke, each worker can smoke as many cigars as they want in a day and can take home 5 each day. Watch as tobacco leaves are treated, rolled, pressed and cut into shape all by incredibly skilled hands. 

Other things you have to do in Havana

1. Get lifts around on the taxi bicycles. The peddlers won't speak English, but they will take you to some hard to find squares, bars with live music, and beautiful churches. 

2. Get a tour around town in an old car. Make sure it's a convertible. We went to the beach for the day in a lime green Plymouth and got a white 1952 V8 model Cadillac home. 

3. If you have time Santa Maria beach is beautiful. Eat lobster on the beach. What more could you ask for. 

4. Go to the Vinales region for a night or two. Visit the Indian caves, see the tobacco farms, ride horses through the plantations. Vinales is a small town about 3 hours from Havana filled with cute little colourful houses and many tourists.